World’s Closest Starbucks to North Korea: A Travel Journalist’s View Through a Telescope

A difficult place to reach without a car, the author did the round trip route on his own.

In fact, getting to Aegibong Peak Observatory on my own was a bit challenging. First, I took the Gimpo Gold Line (Gimpo Urban Railway) to the Janggi Station, then used Uber to reach the entrance of Aegibong Peace Ecological Park. The distance was about 18 km, and the fare was 17,300 won (around 1,700 yen).

On the way back, I called an Uber from the gate, but it never arrived. A nearby Korean staff member from the parking lot suggested, “Use Kakao Taxi.” When I explained that I didn’t have a Kakao account, they told me, “If you walk to the street, you’ll find a bus.” After walking about 2 km to the main road, I found a bus stop. The uphill climb was tough, but the downhill return was much easier.

According to my smartphone map, the bus from there would take me directly to Unyang Station on the Gimpo Gold Line. After waiting about 10 minutes at the bus stop, a small microbus arrived. I used my pre-charged T-money card to board, and after nearly an hour, the bus made its way through unfamiliar towns and fields, with the typical rough driving style of Korean bus drivers. I finally reached Unyang Station. From there, I transferred at Gimpo Airport Station and returned to central Seoul.

Once a fierce battleground of the Korean War, “North Korea x Starbucks” attracts visitors from all over the world?

Most visitors to the Aegibong Observatory, including Starbucks, were Koreans, with a few foreigners. The majority arrived by car. Considering ticket purchases, payment methods, and transportation access, it can be difficult for those who aren’t familiar with Korea or international travel, or who don’t have language skills, to visit on their own. If you really want to go, it’s wise to use a tour that stops at the Aegibong Observatory or hire a local guide with round-trip transportation. Also, it takes about two and a half hours by train from Seoul Station to the Aegibong Observatory.

Aegibong is one of the places symbolizing the history and reality of the division between North and South Korea, being the site of intense battles during the Korean War at the 154 High Ground. It’s also known for its annual Christmas tree-shaped night lighting in winter, which was interrupted several times due to North Korean threats but resumed last year after a nine-year break.

So far, there doesn’t seem to have been any significant reaction from North Korea to the Starbucks. The well-known “Panmunjom” tours at the border between North and South Korea were suspended after the crossing incident last summer and have not yet resumed, with the tension still ongoing.

Enjoying a Starbucks drink, which symbolizes American capitalism, while looking out at North Korea—this is the paradox of visiting the observatory. At the same time, there are memorials for the fallen during the Korean War nearby. Despite this complex historical and current situation, just over a month after opening, the place has already become a popular tourist spot.

A guide to spots in North Korea visible from the Aikobong Observatory. Information is provided mainly in Korean and English, with some in Japanese. Even with the naked eye, North Korean settlements were clearly visible, and the proximity of the DMZ was much closer than on a typical DMZ tour.

Click here for the official website of Aiko Peak Peace Ecological Park.