A Forgotten History – The Unstayable Hotel on a Nara Temple Approach

The NHK Taiga drama “Berabou: Tsutaju Eiga no Yume Banashi,” which portrays Tsutaya Jūzaburō, who was born and raised in Yoshiwara, has been gaining attention. In the first episode, a scene depicting deceased courtesans being stripped of their clothing and left on the ground sparked reactions as a bold portrayal of Yoshiwara’s darker side. However, Yoshiwara’s role as a cultural hub of the time is also drawing interest.

In recent years, there has been a growing fascination with former red-light districts. Not only historically significant places like Yoshiwara and the foreigner-favored Tobita Shinchi, but many remnants of old pleasure quarters and entertainment districts still exist across Japan. Yet, most of them are crumbling with time, on the verge of being forgotten. Underground explorer and YouTuber Pineapple Ura Channel introduces one such “Shinchi.”

A new place where you can take your time and play in a quiet Japanese-style room

When it comes to “Shinchi” where men can spend time with women in the Kansai region, places like Tobita Shinchi and Matsushima Shinchi are well known. However, did you know that Nara Prefecture also has a “Shinchi”?

About 30 minutes by Kintetsu train from Namba, there is an entertainment district in Ikoma City, which has a population of approximately 110,000. Unlike other Shinchi, where women sit at the storefronts calling out to passing customers for a quick 20–30 minute encounter, this district offers a more relaxed experience. Customers can enjoy a proper bath and spend time in a quiet, tatami-matted Japanese-style room—essentially, a place for those who prefer a more leisurely visit.

Ikoma Shinchi, Nara. Its history dates back to 1915. In 1914, when Ikoma Station on the present-day Kintetsu Nara Line opened, a 1.4 km-long approach road to Hozanji Temple was established. With this, many pilgrims began to visit, and souvenir shops and other businesses sprang up along the road. Hozanji itself was founded in 1678, but before the station opened, Ikoma was a remote, sparsely populated village that few people visited.

Noticing the booming activity after the station’s opening, influential figures from Osaka’s Nanchi entertainment district (another name for Namba Shinchi, the predecessor of Tobita Shinchi) opened “Okiya” (lodging houses for courtesans) along the temple approach. From there, Ikoma Shinchi quickly developed and, even after more than 100 years, continues to survive in the Reiwa era. The district remains unchanged, quietly waiting for visitors who seek its unique atmosphere.

 

“Chon-no-Ma” has become an integral part of the tourist district

In October 2024, I took a night train from Tokyo to Kansai and, for the first time in my life, arrived at Ikoma Station. My destination lay halfway between Ikoma Station and Hozanji Temple. While it was possible to walk there, the journey would take around 20 minutes, so I opted for the cable car instead. I boarded a charming train called the “Bull,” designed with a dog’s face, and set off toward my destination.

After about seven minutes, I arrived at Hozanji Station, where I immediately noticed signboards for inns. At first glance, these signs appeared no different from those of any other inn district. However, these establishments were, or once had been, ‘Chon-no-Ma Inns’—inns that provided entertainment.

Beneath a large gate inscribed with “Tourist Ikoma,” there was a map labeled “Ryokan Guide,” marking the inns located along the path between Hozanji Station and the temple. The map indicated a total of 14 inns, but nine of them were blanked out, hinting that the district’s heyday had long passed.

It takes about ten minutes to walk around the entire Shinchi district. There was no particularly suspicious atmosphere; in fact, I even saw two women who appeared to be temple visitors. Unlike other red-light districts, there was no palpable ‘barrier’ keeping outsiders away. With teahouses scattered around, it felt just like any other tourist destination.

Three inns had their doors open. Their seamless integration into the town suggested that the temple and the inns had long coexisted. The only noticeable difference from a typical tourist spot was a sign on the doors that read, “No entry for those under 18.”

Once a thriving pleasure district, Ikoma Shinchi now has only three remaining operational “Chon-no-Ma Inns.” The law of supply and demand is at work—Ikoma Shinchi is slowly reaching the end of its ‘role.’ In today’s world, there are countless ways to meet and spend time with women, from modern entertainment establishments to dating apps. While Hozanji Temple’s history will undoubtedly continue to be passed down, the history of “Ikoma Shinchi” is likely to be erased from the records, left as nothing more than the town’s unspoken past.

A more detailed undercover report on the Chon-no-Ma Inns by YouTuber Pineapple Ura-Ch is available in the paid edition of “FRIDAY GOLD.”