World’s Closest Starbucks to North Korea: A Travel Journalist’s View Through a Telescope

Towards a world-famous tourist destination. Local residents express concerns over possible retaliation.

In late November last year, an American coffee chain, Starbucks, opened near the military demarcation line between South and North Korea. The store is located at an observatory, and just 1.4 km away, across a neutral waterway, lies North Korea.

According to reports at the time of its opening, the local mayor who facilitated Starbucks’ arrival stated that he aimed to turn the area into a globally recognized tourist destination. While this is the first Starbucks in the world with a full view of North Korea, concerns persist among locals about potential backlash from the North, as tensions in the region remain unresolved.

In early January this year, I visited the site and experienced the Starbucks firsthand. This report will cover the atmosphere of the location, as well as the complexities that make it difficult for Japanese travelers to visit.

Under military control, admission is restricted, which is why it is difficult for Japanese travelers to make reservations.

The Aegibong Peak Observatory, located in Gimpo, northern South Korea, is known as the place where North Korea can be seen from the shortest distance. It is situated within the Aegibong Peace Ecological Park, which is managed by the South Korean military and requires a reservation for entry. Access is limited to a few sessions per day, with a maximum of 200 visitors per session.

The official website of the Aegibong Peace Ecological Park offers pages in both Korean and English. However, reservations can only be made on the Korean-language page, requiring the input of a South Korean address. Additionally, Japanese-issued credit cards and other foreign payment methods cannot be used for the entrance fee. As a result, Japanese travelers must rely on local South Koreans to make a reservation on their behalf.

If there are open slots on the day of the visit, tickets can be purchased at the on-site ticket office. The reservation page also displays the remaining number of available spots. While securing entry on holidays can be challenging, visiting early in the morning on a weekday during the off-season increases the chances of getting in.

After being censored by soldiers with guns, we finally entered the park.

The author was able to buy admission tickets at the local ticket office without a reservation. The ticket costs 3,000 won (about 300 yen) per adult, and a passport must be presented at the time of purchase. I had been told when I researched the park in advance that I was required to fill out other necessary information, but this time I did not have to fill out any forms. Payment was made with a prepaid card “WOWPASS” for foreign tourists, which I had registered in advance and charged the required amount.

The ticket office is located at the entrance of the gate, and the observation deck with a Starbucks is just beyond. As soon as the bus departed, it stopped at the gate and a gun-toting soldier from the South Korean Marine Corps, which manages Aiko Peak, entered the bus and checked our tickets and asked us if we had reservations or not, both to and from the bus.

I was still nervous about having a soldier with a gun check my ticket just to use Starbucks, but I answered accurately and without a strong tone of voice, and soon the bus departed. I want to be careful not to lose my ticket.