The second biggest event in the history of wheat in 8,000 years”… The much talked about “glutinous wheat” ramen, the ultimate in sticky texture.

The secret history of the development of glutinous wheat, which was born in Japan…

We have covered the must-have glutinous wheat noodles, but what are the characteristics of glutinous wheat?　And how was it born?　Let’s ask Mr. Kon Inoue again.

The stickiness of noodles such as udon and ramen depends on the genes of the wheat: if the three Wx (waxy) genes A, B, and D are not working, it becomes glutinous wheat. It has been very difficult to get these three genes to stop working. Development has been done all over the world, but radiation, chemicals, and other methods have not led to success.”

There are “glutinous” varieties of rice, barley, corn, millet, and other grass crops, such as “glutinous rice” and “glutinous barley (glutinous barley). However, there was no “glutinous” wheat until recently.

Researchers at the Tohoku Agricultural Research Center of the National Agricultural Research Organization (NARO) struggled hard and succeeded in developing a “glutinous” variety in 1995. This effort was recognized worldwide, with Dr. Craig Morris of the U.S. Department of Agriculture calling it “the second greatest achievement in the 8,000-year history of wheat cultivation.

Incidentally, the “second greatest event” in the history of wheat cultivation is the development of wheat No. 10, which became the cornerstone of the “Green Revolution” that saved the world from a food crisis. It led to a significant increase in crop yields and the Nobel Peace Prize. The invention of glutinous wheat, which was said to be impossible, is said to be the next great epoch-making event after such a great invention.

About 30 years after its development, glutinous wheat has reached the forefront of noodle cuisine. The “Pure Handmade Noodles and Mirai” (Shimokitazawa), established in Shimokitazawa in 2006, was the spark that ignited the ramen restaurant industry, and famous restaurants such as “Feast Kuroki” (Asakusabashi) and “Solanoiro” (Kojimachi) also took notice of it. As the industry’s megatrend of hand-rolled and hand-tossed noodles attracts more and more attention, the number of stores adopting these noodles is slowly increasing. These noodles are being used in the production of aburasoba, tsukemen, and ramen noodles, delighting the mucous membranes in our mouths.

While the development of soup is reaching a critical point, the challenge of artisans to pursue the chewiness and texture of noodles and to improve the perfection of the bowl has not ceased. In this context, glutinous wheat noodles, which Mr. Inoue describes as “extreme mochi-mochi,” will be a powerful weapon. We look forward to further popularization and improvement of the noodles in the future!

The point of glutinous wheat is not only its texture. It also has features that benefit kitchen operations, such as shorter boiling times and reduced loss due to its resistance to a slight boil-over. I hope that this will not be consumed as a temporary trend, but that its characteristics will be properly communicated and that it will become more widespread.