Part 1: “Uotami”, “Hana-no-Mai”, “Isomaru Suisan”… “The Big Three” vs. “Emerging Power” of Seafood Izakaya Chains

The trend is from general izakaya to “specialized” izakaya

As the once-powerful giants of the Japanese izakaya industry have reduced their territory, newcomers are vying for the top spot with an eagle eye, looking for a chance to overtake them.

The rivalry between the great izakaya chains is now taking place, just as it did in the Warring States period, says Yagyu Kyubei, an expert on B-class gourmet food.

In the past, general izakaya chains that served a wide variety of meat and fish dishes were popular, but gradually, “specialized” izakaya chains are attracting more and more attention. A typical example is “Tori Aristocrat,” a chain of izakaya specializing in chicken. However, they have lost their freshness with the appearance of “Tori Melo III,” a yakitori chain operated by Watami, and “New Era,” which pushes chicken skin skewers (denkushi). This is why izakaya chains specializing in seafood, especially sushi, are currently in vogue.

To verify Mr. Yagyu’s words, the FRIDAY reporter visited the Asagaya branch of “Sushi Sake Sakaban Sugitama,” a popular sushi bar operated by the conveyor-belt sushi chain Sushiro in early February. The restaurant’s eaves were decorated with cedar balls, which are displayed when new sake is made at a sake brewery, and the eaves attracted many businessmen on their way home from work. The restaurant has a bright, wood-grained atmosphere, and the menu includes such tempting dishes as “This is the cedar ball sashimi platter” (1,089 yen) and “SNAZED SABA, smothered in condiments” (429 yen). (429 yen) and other appealing-sounding product names. The sushi menu’s “Tokutama 8-kan” (special 8-piece ball) includes a variety of luxurious ingredients such as large and medium fatty tuna and eel for 1,749 yen. The thickly sliced fish and balsamic vinegar rice are a perfect match for the high quality sushi.

The unique names of the sushi include “Too Beautiful, Umeshiso Shin Ka” (319 yen for two pieces) and “Speaking of Sugitama, Drinkable Salmon” (539 yen for two pieces). Oden daikon radish but tempura” (429 yen) and “Horse mackerel bone cracker” (429 yen) are also very cosy. The quality and price are made possible by Sushiro’s ability to purchase in large quantities,” says the owner.

Sugitama” is located in busy downtown areas such as Asagaya, Kagurazaka, and Gakugei Daigaku, but the restaurant does not target corporate or group banquet demand, but rather targets businessmen and office workers on their way home from work, as well as local residents. Therefore, the restaurant has adopted a strategy of expanding awareness with attractive lunch menu items such as the “Funazaki-Don” (990 yen), which is limited to 10 servings, and the “Noon Nigiri Sachi (with red miso soup)” (1,000 yen) to attract more customers in the evening.

This strategy has been successful, and “Sugitama,” which had around 20 outlets in 2008, is currently operating 95 outlets in Japan and abroad, continuing its rapid growth.