Part 1: “Uotami”, “Hana-no-Mai”, “Isomaru Suisan”… “The Big Three” vs. “Emerging Power” of Seafood Izakaya Chains

The trend is from general izakaya to “specialized” izakaya

As the once-powerful giants of the Japanese izakaya industry have reduced their territory, newcomers are vying for the top spot with an eagle eye, looking for a chance to overtake them.

The rivalry between the great izakaya chains is now taking place, just as it did in the Warring States period, says Yagyu Kyubei, an expert on B-class gourmet food.

In the past, general izakaya chains that served a wide variety of meat and fish dishes were popular, but gradually, “specialized” izakaya chains are attracting more and more attention. A typical example is “Tori Aristocrat,” a chain of izakaya specializing in chicken. However, they have lost their freshness with the appearance of “Tori Melo III,” a yakitori chain operated by Watami, and “New Era,” which pushes chicken skin skewers (denkushi). This is why izakaya chains specializing in seafood, especially sushi, are currently in vogue.

To verify Mr. Yagyu’s words, the FRIDAY reporter visited the Asagaya branch of “Sushi Sake Sakaban Sugitama,” a popular sushi bar operated by the conveyor-belt sushi chain Sushiro in early February. The restaurant’s eaves were decorated with cedar balls, which are displayed when new sake is made at a sake brewery, and the eaves attracted many businessmen on their way home from work. The restaurant has a bright, wood-grained atmosphere, and the menu includes such tempting dishes as “This is the cedar ball sashimi platter” (1,089 yen) and “SNAZED SABA, smothered in condiments” (429 yen). (429 yen) and other appealing-sounding product names. The sushi menu’s “Tokutama 8-kan” (special 8-piece ball) includes a variety of luxurious ingredients such as large and medium fatty tuna and eel for 1,749 yen. The thickly sliced fish and balsamic vinegar rice are a perfect match for the high quality sushi.

The unique names of the sushi include “Too Beautiful, Umeshiso Shin Ka” (319 yen for two pieces) and “Speaking of Sugitama, Drinkable Salmon” (539 yen for two pieces). Oden daikon radish but tempura” (429 yen) and “Horse mackerel bone cracker” (429 yen) are also very cosy. The quality and price are made possible by Sushiro’s ability to purchase in large quantities,” says the owner.

Sugitama” is located in busy downtown areas such as Asagaya, Kagurazaka, and Gakugei Daigaku, but the restaurant does not target corporate or group banquet demand, but rather targets businessmen and office workers on their way home from work, as well as local residents. Therefore, the restaurant has adopted a strategy of expanding awareness with attractive lunch menu items such as the “Funazaki-Don” (990 yen), which is limited to 10 servings, and the “Noon Nigiri Sachi (with red miso soup)” (1,000 yen) to attract more customers in the evening.

This strategy has been successful, and “Sugitama,” which had around 20 outlets in 2008, is currently operating 95 outlets in Japan and abroad, continuing its rapid growth.

The three giants of the seafood izakaya industry are struggling

On the other hand, the “three giants” that once reigned as the absolute kings of the seafood izakaya industry are now struggling mightily.

The giant chain “Uomami,” which had 592 stores nationwide in 2007, had 337 stores in 2012. One of the reasons for this is the loss of demand for corporate banquets due to the COVID-19 crisis, but more importantly, fish is no longer a weapon. Although the restaurant has “fish” in the name, it is in fact a general izakaya with a bit of fish pushed out of the menu. When you have hundreds of stores nationwide, the biggest challenge is the stable procurement and distribution of ingredients. Because we prioritize this, a lot of our fish is frozen. This makes it impossible to compete with other seafood izakayas, which are superior in terms of freshness,” said Mitsuhiko Suda, a producer in the restaurant business.

The Monteroza Group, which operates “Uotami,” is focusing its efforts on “Mechikin no Ginji” (171 stores), but has not seen any significant results.

Originally, there was a restaurant in Okinawa called “Me-toriki no Ginji,” which was unrelated to Monteroza. Monteroza, having its eyes on this restaurant, imitated the concept of the restaurant, registered the name “Mechikin no Ginji” as a trademark, and began to expand nationwide. Just as they started “Uomin” in imitation of the izakaya “Watami,” Monteroza is good at thoroughly imitating popular restaurants,” said the company’s president.

Hana-no-Mai,” which had 266 outlets nationwide in 2007, has also drastically reduced the number of outlets to about 100. This is a general izakaya (Japanese style bar) chain that emphasizes fish, and it too is being outnumbered by rivals that specialize in seafood.

Isomaru Suisan, which had 155 stores at its peak, now has fewer than 100. Isomaru’ differentiated itself from other izakayas with its concept of having several people enjoying hamayaki together, but after the COVID-19 crisis, the current trend is for small-group drinking. Combined with the fact that the hamayaki itself has lost its novelty, the number of customers has also dropped off. Looking at the menu again, the only lunch set that costs less than 1,000 yen is the “Isomaru Choidosushi Set” (967 yen), which includes soba or udon noodles and two pieces of sushi. If that is the case, “Sugitama’s” “Funazari Donburi” and “Lunchtime Nigiri” are more appealing. The regular menu is also undeniably overpriced,” said Yagyu.

Sakura Suisan, another fisheries-related restaurant, once gained popularity with its “500 yen lunch” offering free refills of rice, miso soup, etc. However, it is no longer able to maintain its prices, and its menu is now around 1,000 yen.

In February of this year, the restaurant discontinued the free refill policy. Omakase nigiri 5-piece set” costs 870 yen, and its quality is also lower than that of “Sugitama. The quality is also lower than that of Sugitama, and the cost of the “otsuji” (appetizer) is 438 yen, so I have to say that it is not a good cosmetic restaurant.

The number of “Sakura Suisan” restaurants, which had more than 150 at its peak, has now dropped to 14.

The second part is here: ” [Part 2] A Study of Seafood Izakaya Chains: The “Big Three” vs.
The “Three Big Ones” vs.

From the March 7, 2025 issue of FRIDAY