Turning Adversity into Prosperity “1000 Yen Wall” Collapses Leading to the Rise of No-Topping Ramen
The Aesthetics of Subtraction.
The price of a bowl of ramen is rising due to the rising costs of ingredients and utilities. In central Tokyo, it is common for a bowl of ramen to cost over 1,000 yen, and it is not uncommon for the price to reach the 1,500-yen level when chashu pork or ajitama (seasoned eggs) are added.
In this environment, minimal ramen, which is served with only a minimum of condiments such as green onions, or with just noodles and soup, has been attracting attention.
The soup, developed as a specialty, is combined with the noodles, which are the specialty of the restaurant. The simplicity of this menu is what makes it a test of a craftsman’s skill. This dish is a condensation of the craftsman’s desire to “deliver truly delicious ramen. Let us introduce you to the minimalist ramen that has caught our attention.
The beautifully straight-edged noodles shine in a rich chicken soy sauce broth at Ramen Yamaguchi (Tokyo, Takadanobaba).
First, let’s take a closer look at Ramen Yamaguchi, located in Nishi-Waseda. Since its founding in 2013, the shop has earned acclaim, receiving the “Tokyo Ramen of the Year (TRY)” Rookie Award and being selected for six consecutive years as a Bib Gourmand by Michelin. Continuously leading the way in the Takadanobaba to Waseda ramen hotspot, this establishment is renowned for its exceptional offerings.
The signature dish, “Chicken Soba” (1220 yen), features a broth made from Aizu poultry and combined with Rausu kombu dashi, balancing delicacy and strength. The noodles, developed in collaboration with Kyoto-based Menyateiku, emphasize elasticity, resistance to overcooking, and substantial texture. For the tare, three types of soy sauces—flavored soy sauce, nama-age soy sauce, and tamari soy sauce—are used to create a richly aromatic and deeply complex flavor profile.
Chef Yamaguchi Hiroshi has innovated the use of kudzu powder on the char siu to achieve a smooth, jelly-like texture—an industry-first technique that highlights his commitment to perfecting each element. However, his pride lies in the Kakesoba, a minimalist dish that showcases the refined chicken soup and noodles alone. The cost of this minimalist option starts at under 290 yen, offering an accessible yet high-quality experience.
This menu item was created with the hope that customers will discover the true taste of chicken soba, and focuses on the smallest unit of ramen: the noodle and soup. The simplicity of the soup is the reason why the umami of the chicken, the aroma of the soy sauce, and the texture of the noodles come together to create a bowl of ramen that conveys the essence of ramen in a straightforward manner.
The essence of “Ramen Yamaguchi” lies in the harmony of the noodles and soup. The toppings have been eliminated, and the flavor can be felt directly. It is a special dining experience that makes you want to slurp up every last drop of soup.
“Ramen Yamaguchi” 3-13-4 Nishi-Waseda, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo Business hours: 11:00 – 21:30 (LO 21:30). Some restaurants close early if they run out of stock.