Turning Adversity into Prosperity “1000 Yen Wall” Collapses Leading to the Rise of No-Topping Ramen | FRIDAY DIGITAL

Turning Adversity into Prosperity “1000 Yen Wall” Collapses Leading to the Rise of No-Topping Ramen

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The Aesthetics of Subtraction.

The price of a bowl of ramen is rising due to the rising costs of ingredients and utilities. In central Tokyo, it is common for a bowl of ramen to cost over 1,000 yen, and it is not uncommon for the price to reach the 1,500-yen level when chashu pork or ajitama (seasoned eggs) are added.

In this environment, minimal ramen, which is served with only a minimum of condiments such as green onions, or with just noodles and soup, has been attracting attention.

The soup, developed as a specialty, is combined with the noodles, which are the specialty of the restaurant. The simplicity of this menu is what makes it a test of a craftsman’s skill. This dish is a condensation of the craftsman’s desire to “deliver truly delicious ramen. Let us introduce you to the minimalist ramen that has caught our attention.

The beautifully straight-edged noodles shine in a rich chicken soy sauce broth at Ramen Yamaguchi (Tokyo, Takadanobaba).

First, let’s take a closer look at Ramen Yamaguchi, located in Nishi-Waseda. Since its founding in 2013, the shop has earned acclaim, receiving the “Tokyo Ramen of the Year (TRY)” Rookie Award and being selected for six consecutive years as a Bib Gourmand by Michelin. Continuously leading the way in the Takadanobaba to Waseda ramen hotspot, this establishment is renowned for its exceptional offerings.

The signature dish, “Chicken Soba” (1220 yen), features a broth made from Aizu poultry and combined with Rausu kombu dashi, balancing delicacy and strength. The noodles, developed in collaboration with Kyoto-based Menyateiku, emphasize elasticity, resistance to overcooking, and substantial texture. For the tare, three types of soy sauces—flavored soy sauce, nama-age soy sauce, and tamari soy sauce—are used to create a richly aromatic and deeply complex flavor profile.

Chef Yamaguchi Hiroshi has innovated the use of kudzu powder on the char siu to achieve a smooth, jelly-like texture—an industry-first technique that highlights his commitment to perfecting each element. However, his pride lies in the Kakesoba, a minimalist dish that showcases the refined chicken soup and noodles alone. The cost of this minimalist option starts at under 290 yen, offering an accessible yet high-quality experience.

“Kakesoba” (¥930). The noodles, like a tranquil sea of soy sauce aroma, are seductive! Rich chicken oil covers the surface, allowing you to savor the dish hot and flavorful to the last bite.

This menu item was created with the hope that customers will discover the true taste of chicken soba, and focuses on the smallest unit of ramen: the noodle and soup. The simplicity of the soup is the reason why the umami of the chicken, the aroma of the soy sauce, and the texture of the noodles come together to create a bowl of ramen that conveys the essence of ramen in a straightforward manner.

The essence of “Ramen Yamaguchi” lies in the harmony of the noodles and soup. The toppings have been eliminated, and the flavor can be felt directly. It is a special dining experience that makes you want to slurp up every last drop of soup.

Supple noodles jointly developed with Menya Egbe, a noodle factory in Kyoto. The noodles are softer and more comfortable to slurp, and they are well mixed with the soy sauce broth and chicken oil!
“Ramen Yamaguchi” 3-13-4 Nishi-Waseda, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo Business hours: 11:00 – 21:30 (LO 21:30). Some restaurants close early if they run out of stock.

Enjoy the rich umami of chicken in a salt-based soup! / Ramen MAIKAGURA (Chitose Funabashi)

In 2018, Ramen MAIKAGURA was founded in Chitose Funabashi, Setagaya Ward. The owner, Taichi Ichijo, trained for seven years at “Nakamuraya,” known as the origin of Kanagawa-style refined ramen. Since 2019, the shop has also started making its own noodles, aiming to create a harmonious balance between noodles, soup, and broth.

While the shop is highly praised for its variety of chicken paitan ramen, such as the “Shoyu Ramen” with a base of five types of soy sauce, and options like “Chicken Paitan Ramen with White Truffle Oil” and “Chicken Paitan Crema,” we would like to highlight the “Kakesoba (Salt)” here.

Kakesoba (salt) (880 yen). Shio ramen with a clean and simple flavor.

When thinking of salt ramen, a clear and light seafood-based soup often comes to mind. However, MAIKAGURA’s take on salt ramen stands out. The soup maintains transparency while showcasing a subtle golden hue. Known as a master of “chicken” use, this esteemed shop has earned four consecutive victories in the TRY Ramen Award’s Chicken Paitan category.

Owner Taichi Ichijo shares, “Nakamuraya, where I trained, was the first to introduce a menu featuring only noodles and soup, known as ‘Dashi Kake.’ I wanted to carry that tradition forward, which is why we made it a regular offering starting in May 2023.” Let’s taste this minimalist bowl.

Bringing a spoonful to your mouth, the rich umami of chicken and the fragrant, glossy chicken oil leave a lasting impression. Sipping directly from the bowl reveals a pleasant aroma of chicken permeating through the soup. The thick texture coexists harmoniously with its refined elegance, creating a flavor profile that feels effortlessly stylish even in its contradictions.

The homemade noodles are not slurpy” but slippery. The mellow aroma of chicken spreads in your mouth at once because of the easy-slurping design.

Since salt ramen has been elevated from a limited-time offering to a regular menu, options like the “Wagyu Cheek and Maitake Salt Ramen” (¥1460) and the “Yuzu Salt Ramen” (¥1180) showcase a special and refined menu composition. For those looking to pair directly with the salt soup, the “Kakesoba” priced under ¥300–¥400 serves as a strong and accessible choice.

The soba noodles are topped with green onions, which are served on a separate plate and added later. Mr. Ichijo says, “First of all, I want you to take the time to enjoy the aroma, taste, and texture of the pure broth and noodles.”
Because it is a reasonable “kakesoba” (buckwheat noodle), the “negitama rice” (320 yen) with hot egg and green onions is 1,200 yen. It can be enjoyed for about the same price as Ajitama Shoyu Ramen (1,180 yen).
“Ramen MAIKAGURA” 1-38-4 Funabashi, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo Hours: 11:30-15:00 18:00-20:00 Closed: Mondays (or the following weekday if Monday is a holiday). Access: 6-minute walk from Chitose Funabashi Station on Odakyu Line

Experience a new take on miso soup with a simple yet satisfying approach. / Ramen-ya Toy Box (Minowa)

While minimalist ramen is typically centered around soy or salt-based broths, Ramen-ya Toy Box offers a unique approach with its minimalist miso options.

Toy Box has consistently topped the TRY Ramen Award for four consecutive years, securing the overall #1 spot and becoming the third establishment to be inducted into the Hall of Fame. Known for its “Mizokei” style, where pure soup is created with just water and chicken, Toy Box presents a range of minimalist ramen. These include a soy-based “Shoyu Ramen” with rich local chicken flavor, a “Shio Ramen” enhanced with katsuo, and a “Miso Ramen” that has consistently ranked in TRY’s Miso category for 11 years.

Owner Takahiro Yamagami explains, 

“Given the rising prices of ramen, I wanted to offer more options for our customers. However, even our ‘Kake Ramen’ starts at ¥1000, though our standard menu prices remain at ¥1200. With our commitment to ingredient exploration and flavor refinement, this pricing reflects our dedication to evolving minimalist ramen experiences.”

Kake Ramen (Miso) (1,000 yen). “When I taste it myself, it’s kake ramen, so I’m wondering if it would be a good addition to the menu,” says Yamagami.

Ordering this dish with preconceived notions of a typical “miso ramen” may bring a slight sense of surprise. The soup, though resembling the characteristic brownish hue of miso, carries a subtle, spicy aroma that greets the nose. Made with a base of premium local chicken soup, a blend of several types of miso including Aizu miso, and a unique touch of freshly ground wine pepper adds an individual flair. The addition of orange jam infused with Chen Pi and pink pepper enhances the depth and complexity of the flavor profile.

The rich miso strikes the palate with intensity, while the diverse spices filter through the nose with each bite. A sensory journey unfolds with every spoonful—a dynamic, adventurous taste experience. The toppings, featuring baby greens and purple onions, provide a satisfying departure from the traditional char siu-centric miso ramen, offering a harmonious balance. Alongside this exceptional miso soup, the soy and salt-based “Kake Ramen” remain equally essential minimalist menu items.

The soup is of a smooth consistency, but the broth is thick enough to be well mixed with the noodles!
The noodles are made by Taisei Foods. The noodles are made by Taisei Foods and go in smoothly, and the aroma of the wheat is superb!
Since this is a minimalist ramen, I paired it with takikomi-gohan (takikomi gohan) (300 yen).
Minimalistic noodle and soup, but with meat and rice to fill your stomach. Diced char siu pork with the aroma of ginger and soy sauce is riddled with flavor!
“Ramen shop Toy Box” 1-1-3 Higashinippori, Arakawa-ku, Tokyo Hours: 11:00 – 15:00 18:00 – 21:00 (Lunch only on Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays) Closed: Mondays (the following day if Monday is a holiday) – Second and fourth Tuesday of each month. Access: 2-minute walk from Minowa Station on Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line

A new presentation of ramen shown by the minimal ramen of soy sauce, salt, and miso. The ingredients that symbolize “ramen-ness,” such as chashu pork and menma, are purposely removed, and only the noodles and soup are used to face the essence of the dish. There is an aesthetics of cutting down. This trial-and-error approach is a proposal that is only more valuable in this era of skyrocketing prices.

This is an approach that pursues value rather than cheapness. For the consumer, the convenience of being able to combine a mini-donburi and a bowl of rice for only 1,000 yen plus or minus is also a plus point. The simple structure, on the contrary, creates a sense of luxury. We hope you will try Minimal Ramen for a new era of dining experience.

  • Interview, text, and photographs Masataka Sasaki

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