The COVID-19 crisis has prompted many restaurants to open for business in the morning! Morning ramen” is now rapidly increasing! | FRIDAY DIGITAL

The COVID-19 crisis has prompted many restaurants to open for business in the morning! Morning ramen” is now rapidly increasing!

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Kitakata Shokudo (Asakusa)
Kuradashi Shoyu Ramen ◎850 yen

A famous restaurant where you can enjoy the standard “morning ramen” of Kitakata in Tokyo.
Open from 7:00 a.m.

This light yet flavorful authentic Kitakata soy sauce ramen is perfect for the morning. You can also choose to add back fat to your ramen.

Kitakata Ramen, the original “morning ramen,” is served in Fukushima Prefecture. Since its establishment, the restaurant has used ingredients such as soy sauce and miso produced in Fukushima Prefecture to preserve the authentic taste. 9 years ago, the restaurant opened and has been consistently open early in the morning, striving to make “morning ramen” not a passing fad, but a culture.

Address: Nakazawa Daiichi Bldg. 1F, 4-7-15 Motoasakusa, Taito-ku, Tokyo
Tel: 050-1524-0904
Business hours: 7:00 – 15:00
Closed: Unscheduled holidays
Access:3 min. walk from Inaricho Sta. on the Tokyo Metro Ginza Line.

Close to Ueno Station as well as Senso-ji Temple and other sightseeing spots in Asakusa. Many people go sightseeing after having morning ramen at this restaurant.

Asa Ramen” is thriving.

While the mere mention of the word may make some people sick to their stomachs, there are regions in Japan, such as Fukushima and Shizuoka prefectures, where the custom of eating ramen for breakfast has taken root. It is said that the “morning ramen culture” was born because many people engaged in early morning physical labor, such as working in the fields or fishing, to energize them.

But the kicker that started the epidemic in urban areas was the “COVID-19 crisis.” Since 2008, ramen stores, which had found it difficult to open after 8:00 p.m. due to repeated declarations of a state of emergency and the issuance of measures to prevent the spread of the disease, decided to open early in the morning as a way to break the deadlock. As a result, many stores were successful, and even now that Corona has begun to calm down, the number of stores that continue to do so and the number of stores that imitate them have increased. Many of them offer special ramen only during the morning hours, and the general trend is to offer ramen that tastes lighter and is priced slightly lower than the regular menu.

Then, who are the customers? This varies greatly depending on the location. Some businesspeople are looking for a quick energy boost before work in the area near the office, while Ebisu’s Tsunagi, located near the downtown area, attracts people after a night of work to “finish off” their drinks. At Marue Chuka Soba, located near a residential area in Sugamo, many mothers rush in after dropping off their children at school.

Morning ramen” continues to expand, supported by a wide variety of demand. It is likely that this trend will continue for some time to come.

Marue Chuka Soba (Sugamo)
Asa Ramen ◎600 yen

I didn’t know there was a “back fat type” that is so satisfying in the morning!
Open from 7:00 a.m.

The noodles are strong, and the pork is also very attractive. At only 600 yen, it is a very satisfying bowl of ramen for the morning!

Eiichi Sato, a former owner of the popular dried ramen restaurant “Ramen Nagi,” serves “morning ramen” only in the morning on a borrowed basis. Although it looks fatty, the seafood-based soup has a surprisingly light flavor. It is easy to drink up even in the morning. The number of servings is limited to 50, so be sure to come early!

Address: Plateau Saka 1F, 1-14-1 Sugamo, Toshima-ku, Tokyo
Tel: 03-5395-8808
Business hours: 7:00-10:00 (morning ramen) *Since March, irregular hours; 11:30-16:00, 17:00-20:00 (Mon-Sat), 11:30-19:00 (Sun, holidays)
Closed: Wed. and Thu.
Access: 2 minutes walk from Sugamo Station on JR Yamanote Line

Popular not only with businessmen before work, but also with mothers after dropping off their children at school.

Yokohama Iekei Shidaya (Kamata)
Morning ramen ◎680 yen

Asa kara ikebana” is now a common practice among ramen fans!
Open from 7:00 a.m.

The medium-thick noodles, a staple of the Ihekei style, are well mixed with the rich, pork bone broth. The large, meaty pork chashu pork is also a popular dish.

Iekei morning ramen has become very popular in recent years. In these days of high prices, it is offered at a surprisingly low price of 680 yen. The morning business is still in its infancy, having started last fall, but it has been so well received by customers that it has been decided to continue the business. With rice included, this is the perfect place for those who want to eat a full meal in the morning.

Address: 5-18-2 Kamata, Ota-ku, Tokyo
Tel: 03-3731-6088
Business hours: 7:00 – 11:00 (morning ramen), 11:00 – 1:00 (Mon. – Sat.), 11:00 – 24:00 (Sun.) *No morning business on Sunday.
Closed: Open every day
Access:2 min. walk from Kamata Sta. of JR Keihin Tohoku Line

Iekei Asa-Ra is very popular among those who want to eat with gusto in the morning. A wide variety of toppings are available, so it is fun to pursue your own favorite taste!

Menya Kiraku Meijin (Tokiwadai)
Spicy Sesame Soba Noodle ¥1,000

Spicy ramen in the morning? This is a new standard with a punch that those who wonder so should try!
Open from 6:30 a.m.

The sesame flavor doubles your appetite, and is a must for those who love ramen noodles. The spiciness will surely energize your morning!

This up-and-coming ramen restaurant opened at the end of last year. Its signature dish is the soy-sauce-based “light and refreshing kakesoba,” but the brightly colored “spicy sesame soba” is also popular among businessmen who come here before work. The menu is said to change depending on the availability of ingredients, so please check the restaurant’s SNS before visiting.

Address: 1-8-10 Higashishinmachi, Itabashi-ku, Tokyo
Tel: 03-6789-1919
Business hours: 6:30 – 8:30 (morning ramen, Mon – Sat), 11:30 – 14:00, 18:00 – 21:00 (Sun – Wed), 18:00 – 1:00 (Thu – Sat)
Closed: Unscheduled holidays
Access: 9 min. walk from Tobu Tojo Line Tokiwadai Sta.

The “Dhanrei Kakesoba” (600 yen with rice) is also a popular morning dish. The refreshing taste of niboshi (dried sardines) is perfect for mornings.
This restaurant is located in a residential area near the station. The sui-gyoza (dumplings) are also of high quality and have already become a hot topic among ramen fans even though it opened at the end of last year!

Tsunagi (Ebisu)
Morning ramen ◎500 yen

The simple taste of soy sauce is good for your stomach in the morning!
Open from 7:00 a.m.

Simple is best soy sauce ramen is perfect for morning. The wavy, medium-thin noodles glide smoothly down your throat.

A simple morning ramen consisting only of noodles, soup, and scallions. The one-coin price is also a big hit with regular customers, who flock to the restaurant as soon as it opens. The egg on rice is also a must order. The soy sauce-based soup goes perfectly with the rice, making it a perfect morning nourishment. The popular thick miso ramen can also be ordered in the morning.

Address: Urban House 1F, 1-4-1 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Tel: 03-6450-2776
Business hours: 7:00-10:00 (morning ramen* except Monday and Tuesday, open on national holidays), 11:00-11:00 Open on national holidays), 11:00-23:00
Closed: No regular holidays
Access: 2 minutes walk from Ebisu Station on JR Yamanote Line

The restaurant is crowded with customers before and after work from the time it opens. Many repeat customers start with morning ramen and then become addicted to other dishes on the menu.

From the March 24, 2023 issue of “FRIDAY

  • Interview and text Carlos Yabuki PHOTO Shinji Hamasaki

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