[Exclusive Report] Raking in Big Money from Foreigners in Shinjuku’s Golden Gai: The “Golden Gai Witch” and Her “Hospitality” That Captivates Customers

Does a “Witch” Live in Golden Gai!?

Shinjuku, Tokyo, is bustling with international tourists. Golden Gai, in particular, is highly popular as one of Japan’s “hidden gems.”As a result of the influx of foreign visitors, the area has taken on a bubble-like atmosphere and is enjoying unprecedented prosperity. We received a tip that there is a woman in Golden Gai who is raking in the cash from foreign customers—so much so that some people have taken to calling her a “witch.” We went undercover to observe her business tactics.

We conducted our interview on a Friday. As expected, Golden Gai was teeming with people. In addition to foreign tourists, a diverse crowd gathered in search of drinks—from office workers heading to their favorite bars to unwind after a long day to individuals whose occupations were unclear. The bar where the “witch” was said to be working was located in one corner of the area.

When I opened the door, I was greeted with a cheerful “Hello, welcome!” When I explained that I was there to conduct an interview, she readily agreed on the condition that “it wouldn’t bother the other customers.” I’ll refer to this woman as Ms. A from here on out.

“I’m 25 years old. I graduated from college and joined a regular company, but I quit after a year.It was a hassle dealing with people who were picky about my hairstyle and clothes, and having to kowtow to the bossy older women. I graduated from a national university in Tokyo, and since I grew up abroad, I can speak English. I lived in the UK and Malaysia for seven years, and I studied abroad in Europe for a year during college,” said Ms. A.

She reportedly had the best sales record in her department at the company she left. Even from just a brief conversation—with stories like “I took a nerdy science guy’s virginity,” “I slept with a coworker from my same hiring class,” and “I slept with the top salesperson from another department” —you can already see glimpses of why she’s called a “witch.”

“Besides this bar, I also work at a ‘con-cafe’ where I serve customers dressed as a bunny girl or in a swimsuit. I love talking to people, and above all, I love drinking. Being able to have fun drinking and get paid for it—it’s my dream job. It might sound a bit crass, but since I have a college degree, if I can’t make enough money here, I’ll just go back to being a corporate employee.”

It’s true that Golden Gai is experiencing a bubble-like boom thanks to foreign customers. However, she explained the realities of the neighborhood, noting, “Sales vary depending on the bar.”

“There are some bars that refuse to let foreigners in, and I get the impression that those places aren’t doing very well. For bars located on the second floor, fewer people just happen to drop by, so naturally, there are fewer new customers.“This might be a characteristic of Golden Gai, but most of the foreign visitors are in their 20s and 30s. Overseas, there’s a bar culture—terms like ‘bar hopping’ and ‘pub crawl’ exist. Many come to Golden Gai to do what we in Japan call ‘bar hopping’—having one or two drinks at a place and then moving on to the next.”

According to Mr. A, 90 percent of the foreign visitors to his bar are from Europe and the U.S., with almost no Asians—only the occasional Korean . “Just being able to serve customers in English allows the bar to make a decent profit,” he says.

Foreign tourists often have a culture of stopping by a bar for a drink before dinner, and small bars like those in Golden Gai seem to be a less intimidating option than going to an izakaya.

A customer has arrived!

While I was conducting the interview, the door opened and some foreign customers walked in. Mr. A served them in fluent English. The foreigners looked surprised as they ordered drinks.

A man from Denmark said , “I’ve always wanted to visit Shinjuku in Tokyo. I’m planning to stay in Japan for a month, and I’m heading to Osaka next week.” Apparently, this was his third visit to the bar. He brought some friends with him today, following up on his visit from the day before.

What surprised me was Ms. A’s customer service. When she stepped out from behind the bar to serve drinks, she stood unusually close to the customers. She treated all other guests the same way, politely explaining the drinks in English and smiling as she spoke to even those who were already tipsy, without showing any annoyance. Perhaps it was her personality, but the customers—both men and women—all looked delighted.

The Danish man I mentioned earlier also described Ms. A’s service as “wonderful.”

“Her service is amazing. She’s friendly and really puts the customers first. I never thought I’d be able to go to a bar in Japan where English is spoken, so I plan to enjoy myself today. Plus, she’s really easygoing—if I invite her to ‘have a drink with me,’ she’ll join me. That would be unthinkable at other places.”

Not only does she provide courteous service, but she also never turns down an offer of a drink. Another reason for her popularity is that she answers the simple questions foreign customers have.

“I used to think it was rude to tip in Japan. When I asked her about it, she told me the staff’s true feelings: ‘We can’t accept tips at chain stores, but it’s okay elsewhere. We’d be happy to get some extra money, too.’ Here, I can hear the answers to my questions about Japan straight from a Japanese person. That makes me really happy,” he added.

Whether foreign or Japanese, what customers seek in places that serve alcohol is communication. Unlike izakayas or restaurants, the bar-style setting brings people closer together. The ability to interact at close range is likely another reason for its popularity.

Her daily earnings are…

However, that alone doesn’t seem to be the only reason she’s raking it in. Mr. B (a Japanese man), a regular at this bar, gave me the answer. “I’ve been coming here about twice a week since Ms. A started working here, ” he said—it seems he’s one of her fans, too.

“She’s friendly and charming with everyone. And she’s willing to go along with a bit of dirty talk. Maybe because there aren’t any bars overseas where women serve customers up close like this, foreign tourists take an instant liking to the place when they come here. I suppose the novelty plays a part, but there’s no man who wouldn’t enjoy being served up close by a beautiful woman.”

In short, their drooling is loosening the purse strings. I don’t think the flushed, flustered faces of these men are due solely to the alcohol. Everyone’s gaze was fixed on Ms. A.

Even as the last train approached, the flow of people showed no sign of slowing down. As Ms. A had said, many people had just one or two drinks before leaving, so customer turnover was fast. When I asked how much she earned, she said , “On average, 30,000 to 40,000 yen a day.”

“Since we’re on commission, it really depends on the individual. Even on a slow day, I make about 20,000 yen. The most I’ve ever made was just shy of 100,000 yen. That time, I got a little carried away, made a lot of noise, and drank all the alcohol the customers bought for me. By closing time, I was so exhausted that I practically collapsed into a chair and fell asleep right there in the bar.Sometimes I get tips in dollars or euros when a customer says, ‘I forgot to cash this in, so here, take it’” (Ms. A)

As I thanked her for the interview and was about to leave, Ms. A leaned in close and whispered in my ear, “Since you didn’t ask, I’ll add this: Foreigners generally dislike bars with a cover charge. Because they have a tipping culture…” she whispered. Then, clasping my hands with both of hers, she said, “Next time, please come just to have fun—not for an interview. I’ll be waiting.” It was the moment I understood why she’s called the “Witch of Golden Gai.”

It’s likely her fearless, cheerful personality and language skills—which allow her to interact with anyone—that enable her to make a living in Golden Gai.