Aika Kanda Rides the Yamanote Line at Night—What She Saw and Felt

This guy! Are you serious!!

One weekend in June, I boarded the Yamanote Line late at night. Though it was just past 10 PM—not exactly the middle of the night—for someone like me who, since getting married, heads straight home after work in the office car and rarely goes out at night even on days off, this already felt late and somewhat adventurous.

Maybe because it was a Saturday night, most people waiting on the platform were cheerfully drunk. Laughing loudly, linking arms, clearly having a good time. I thought, “Ah, so this is what city train stations look like at night.” Memories came flooding back.

When I worked at NHK, I often took the last train out of Shibuya Station after 1 AM. The scene on the platform that night was exactly like that. Back then, after work, we’d head to izakayas with senior colleagues, debating passionately, pushing each other to improve. I suddenly realized, “What I really miss about NHK isn’t the job itself—it’s losing that camaraderie.” I became a bit sentimental.

Then the train arrived. I’m the type who always wants to sit. As long as there’s a seat available, I go all in to claim it. Refocusing my attention, I slipped through the crowd—right shoulder, left shoulder—maneuvering expertly and secured a seat. The train was packed to the point that standing passengers’ legs were brushing the knees of seated ones. To win a seat under such conditions? “Yes! I’ve still got it!” I thought proudly, basking in the glow of my small victory as I opened a game on my phone.

That’s when I noticed the man sitting to my left start moving his hand near his face. I barely registered it—just thought “Huh, he’s doing something.” I kept playing. But then he extended his arm forward and began moving his fingers again. “Is he drunk?” I wondered, still focused on my game. But when he repeated the same motion a second time, dread suddenly tightened my body. “Wait, no way—seriously!?” I slowly turned my head and confirmed it with my own eyes.

Yes—he was picking his nose. He stuck his finger in, twisted it around, then casually flicked off whatever he dug out onto the floor.

“This guy! Are you serious!!” Rage welled up inside me. Even if he was drunk, that was crossing a line. And he had no intention of stopping—each time he pulled his finger out, something nasty came with it, which he just shook off. “I’ve got to make him stop!” I thought. I figured if he realized I was staring at him, he’d be too embarrassed to keep going.

So, I stared—right from the side, full-on. And then our eyes met.

My heart jolted—bam!

Everywhere I looked, there was fear

(If I look away now, he won’t get the message!) I braced myself and held eye contact for about three seconds. Then, unable to take it anymore, I looked away and lowered my eyes to my phone screen.

(I just hope he felt embarrassed for being seen), I thought—but no sooner had that crossed my mind, he brought his hand back to his face again.

(What!? Again!?) He started rolling his finger just like before. Then he pulled it out and—unbelievably—this time, he pointed his hand toward me! From that moment, everything moved in slow motion.

(No way, you’ve got to be kidding me!) The next thing I knew, his finger was fully in my line of sight. And just as I thought (It’s over), he flicked his fingers right over my thigh.

(Ugh. AAAAAAHHHH!!!) I screamed inside. How can something like this be allowed to happen!? (You saw that disgusting act too, right!?) I glanced to the man sitting on my right, hoping for some support—but he was staring blankly with his mouth open, and his right hand was gripping his mini self. (Wait, WHAT!?)

I felt like I was going insane with fear. (Please, someone notice how messed up this situation is!) I looked at the older man standing in front of me, only to see him shoving something that looked like a sweet potato into his mouth in one huge bite.

Total chaos. Finally, my stop arrived. I stood up, leaning my body to the right to avoid having more bits flicked onto me by the finger man, and got off the train. Maybe I just hadn’t noticed it before, but has the Yamanote Line always been like this at night? Or maybe, while I stopped going out at night, the very nights of Japan changed. To make sure I never experience something like this again, I decided—better to just stay home quietly at night.

★This column series has been compiled into her first book, “Where Exactly Does the Royal Road Run?”—now on sale to great acclaim!

Aika Kanda. Born in 1980 in Kanagawa Prefecture. After graduating from the Department of Mathematics, Faculty of Science at Gakushuin University, she joined NHK as an announcer in 2003. She left NHK in 2012 and became a freelance announcer. Since then, she has been active mainly in variety programs and is currently appearing regularly as the main MC on the daytime show “Pokapoka” (Fuji TV).

From “FRIDAY” July 18–25, 2025 Combined Issue