Osaka’s Hakken-den Expands Rapidly: Can Torikizoku Hold Its Ground?
Even in Japan, where the price of rice has now surpassed 5,000 yen for 5 kg and inflation shows no sign of slowing down, the popularity of affordable and delicious yakitori restaurants remains unwavering.
The first part is here → “Affordable and Delicious!” A Shift in the Power Dynamics of the Bold Entrepreneurs Eyeing the “Chicken-based Izakaya” Trend!
As expected, Torikizoku is just too strong
The chains introduced so far have mostly opened locations in the Kanto and Tokai regions, but in reality, the biggest battleground for chicken-based izakayas is in Kansai. Among them, Hakken-den (189 stores), founded in 1984, enjoys passionate popularity in its hometown of Osaka. The restaurant specializes in authentic charcoal-grilled yakitori, with their “Aritadori Black Grilled Premium Thigh” priced at 275 yen per skewer, showing a bold pricing strategy. Other high-level side dishes include “Chicken Sashimi” (660 yen) and “Charcoal-Grilled Chicken White Soup Ramen” (759 yen), both showcasing top-tier chicken-based offerings.
Hakken-den is currently expanding its presence in Tokyo, with 15 stores now open. However, there is an undeniable heavyweight contender from the same Osaka roots that remains incredibly strong.
“With its uniform pricing and high-quality offerings, ‘Torikizoku,’ boasting over 600 locations, made waves in 2023 by acquiring the industry’s second-largest chain, ‘Yakitori Daikichi’ (479 stores), changing the competitive landscape significantly. ‘Daikichi’ originally expanded by offering store operation know-how and systems to couples who had left their corporate jobs, enabling them to open small izakayas in residential neighborhoods. However, with the aging of its owners in recent years, the chain has faced challenges. This acquisition, though, allows staff from ‘Torikizoku’ to strike out on their own and open ‘Daikichi’ franchises. ‘Torikizoku’ mainly operates through corporate FC (Franchise) memberships, which supports this transition. Additionally, the distinction between ‘Daikichi,’ which thrives in residential areas with smaller outlets, and ‘Torikizoku,’ which builds large-scale stores in busy districts, works to their advantage,” said Hibiki Amemiya, editor of “Kindaishokudo” magazine.
Despite maintaining over 1,000 stores across the group and celebrating its 40th anniversary this year, Torikizoku remains strong, but it is also facing a critical moment.
“Since 1989, ‘Torikizoku’ had maintained a uniform price of 280 yen per item, but this increased to 298 yen in 2017, and this year, it became ‘390 yen uniform.’ Due to labor shortages, rising personnel costs, changes in the liquor tax law that raised alcohol procurement costs, and increasing utility fees, price hikes were unavoidable. The chicken and vegetables used in its flagship items, such as ‘Momo Torikizoku Yaki,’ are all domestically sourced, and the chain is also actively pursuing a ‘Domestic Production for Domestic Consumption’ policy. The sauces are simmered over a day at the company’s factory, and skewering is done at each store, which explains the price increases,” explained Shigemori, a market analyst.
However, it is true that ‘Torikizoku’ is no longer the casual, affordable choice for younger customers.
“With the uniform pricing model, a single price revision led to price hikes across the board, potentially giving consumers a sense of overpricing. Given the current situation, it’s possible that they might abolish the uniform pricing system. While it’s unlikely that ‘Torikizoku’ will suddenly collapse, if they adopt a pricing strategy that consumers find unacceptable, they could face a critical situation,” noted Yagyu, an industry expert.
If the Torikizoku empire slows down, rivals are sure to raise their flags and launch a counterattack.
From the May 30, 2025 issue of “FRIDAY”
