Revolutionizing the Scene: How Chicken-Themed Izakayas Are Disrupting the Market

Chicken-themed izakayas are two birds with one stone solution.

Even in Japan, where the price of rice has surged to over 5000 yen for 5 kg, the popularity of affordable and delicious yakitori restaurants remains undiminished.

In early May, a reporter from FRIDAY visited the Yakitori no Meimon Akikyo in Ginza, where over 20 customers were already in line. After waiting for about 30 minutes, the reporter entered the restaurant and noticed that, true to its location, middle-aged men were often seen chatting while enjoying beer.

“Welcome, President!”

Every time a new customer entered, the enthusiastic greeting echoed through the restaurant. Apparently, male customers are called “President” and female customers are referred to as “Miss.” A staff member proudly explained, “We call them ‘President’ because the money the customers pay goes towards the staff’s salaries.” Though the reporter was tempted to ask why “Miss” would be considered odd in that context, they ordered the popular negima (5 skewers for 528 yen).

Food analyst Takao Shigemori, who visited the restaurant with the reporter, shared some insights:

“Founded in 1959 in Fukui City, the first Akikyo store was just four tsubo (approximately 13 square meters) in size. Now, it’s become so popular in the Hokuriku region that almost no one there hasn’t heard of it. It has grown to 103 locations nationwide. One of the restaurant’s unique features is the stainless steel warming trays at each table. When you order a skewer, it’s placed on this tray while it’s still hot. The temperature is just warm enough to keep the skewers from cooling down, even if you chat for a while. The craftsmanship of each skewer, carefully grilled by skilled chefs, is excellent.”

“By focusing on a narrow menu of skewers and fried dishes, chicken-based izakayas can reduce costs on ingredients and cooking equipment, and channel those savings into better quality and more attention to preparation. For chicken, it’s really a two birds with one stone strategy.”

Super Hit: Dengushi (Skewers of Tradition)

By focusing on affordable chicken, these chicken-themed izakayas manage to keep startup costs low. Naturally, many savvy entrepreneurs have taken notice. Since the 2010s, izakayas focusing specifically on chicken have been on the rise, including chains like Shinjidai (143 locations), San-Daime Tori Mero (101 locations), Miraisaka (88 locations), and Soreyuke! Tori Yaro! (78 locations). Among them, the standout hit has been Shinjidai’s “Denbushi” (skewered chicken skin), priced at just 55 yen per skewer.

According to B-grade gourmet expert Mr. Yagyu:

“Dengushi is chicken skin skewered in a wavy pattern, deep-fried, and topped with a special blend of spices. You can order one at a time, but if you order six or more, they serve it in a pyramid shape. People are drawn to this pyramid presentation, often ordering more to share with friends. While fried chicken skin tends to have an unhealthy reputation, the spices used are made from ginseng and soybeans, making it salt-free and actually quite healthy. It’s perfect for middle-aged folks who are conscious about their health and want to enjoy something delicious without the guilt. Shinjidai has become the go-to place for Denbushi, much like how people flock to Sekai no Yamachan for their famous Tebasaki (wings).”

Torimero and Miraisaka are chains that recognized the potential of chicken-focused izakayas and expanded after the success of WATAMI, the parent company behind WATAMI restaurants.

Mr. Yagyu continues:

“At first, Watami had the reputation of being a black company and by around 2016, they started to pivot their brand. Torimero focuses on affordable yakitori (grilled chicken skewers) starting at 88 yen each, and Miraisaka offers dishes like Seiryu Wakadori (a crispy whole chicken wing) for 1,098 yen. While Miraisaka still offers a variety of seafood, they have managed to establish themselves as more chicken-focused. However, Torimero and Miraisaka still feature many seafood options and general izakaya-style menu items like beef sukiyaki and tuna sashimi, which somewhat dilutes their identity as chicken-centric taverns.”

As these chicken-themed taverns continue to grow, there may be a shift in their popularity and direction.

The second part is here → “Chicken-based Izakaya” The popular chain ‘Hakken-den’ in Osaka is expanding its influence! Is there any instability in the ‘Torikizoku’ empire?

From the May 30, 2025 issue of FRIDAY