Part 2: Tobita Shinchi Revealed – A Former Top Hostess on Industry Shifts and Life After

In the 400-meter square neighborhood, around 160 “ryotei” (Japanese-style restaurants) line the streets, illuminated by the light of lanterns, casting a mysterious charm as night falls. Men are drawn to the area, exchanging short words like “How much?” with seasoned hostesses.

This is the daily life of Japan’s largest chōn no ma (brothel district), Tobita Shinchi, located in Osaka’s Nishinari Ward.

In recent years, some concerns were raised about the possibility of Tobita being shut down due to purification efforts related to the Osaka-Kansai Expo, but it seems that it won’t be affected.

Tobita Shinchi is sometimes described as a world detached from reality, often discussed in a humorous light. However, the full picture of this district and the struggles of those who work there remain largely unknown. Amid this, a woman who once reigned as a top hostess and retired last year shared the real side of Tobita Shinchi.

Part 1 is here: [Part 1] A Former Top Hostess Reveals the Realities of Tobita Shinchi – The Largest Chōn no Ma in Japan.

Where she moved to after the construction

After changing stores three times and working for over 15 years, she notes that “Tobita has changed significantly in recent years.” One of the most notable changes is the motivation of the women working there.

“When I started working around 10 years ago, many women were dealing with debt and had no choice but to work in this field. But now, most of the women are motivated by lighter reasons, like ‘falling for a host’ or needing money for surgery. Some even refuse to let customers touch their breasts because of their fake ones. There are very few women who have a true professional mindset.

With the rise of online job postings and aggressive scouts, it’s now easier for women to enter this industry. Honestly, the girls don’t get along much anymore. In the dressing rooms, they mostly talk about superficial things like ‘Which clinic is best for surgery.’ Back then, there were many women from Kyushu, Shikoku, and Okinawa, but that’s not so common anymore.”

Another visible change has been the decrease in customer numbers. Compared to its peak, the number of customers is down by about 30–40%. While there were stores that once refused foreign tourists, now some shops rely heavily on foreign customers.

“Japanese people have started spending less money, and now the place is filled with Chinese customers. But even the Chinese are getting more frugal, so some women are quitting because they can’t earn enough. Some girls complain about the risks, like illegal filming where their faces are recorded and spread. Nowadays, it’s not uncommon for women to earn money in Tobita and then use it for body construction to work at high-end clubs or soaplands in Kitashinchi. Many women graduate from Tobita early.”

Issues with hygiene, like the lack of showers, are also a reason for women leaving quickly.

But the most common reason is conflicts between women.

“Many of the women working in Tobita have dogs, so the dressing rooms are filled with them. The elderly attendants and managers take care of them. There are also times when underwear and clothes are scattered, and some shops have really dirty dressing rooms. Once, I forgot my underwear at home, so I had to wear what was available in the room. But it turned out to be another girl’s, and she demanded 100,000 yen from me. There are also a lot of petty fights between women, so only a handful of girls can survive.”

Kaho candidly shared these realities because of her deep affection for Tobita New Town and concerns about its current state.

Gratitude towards Tobita New Town

When interviewing people around her, there are voices expressing anxiety, saying, “We don’t know when Tobita will disappear.” This fear is not only due to large-scale crackdowns by the police or the purification efforts associated with the upcoming Osaka Expo, but also because of the serious decline in customer numbers. As a result, it is expected that the scale of the brothel districts will shrink, making it difficult to secure women and manage businesses.

In fact, Kaho herself retired from being a hostess. However, even now, the words that come to her mind are words of gratitude towards Tobita New Town.

“When the hostesses gather, the conversation naturally turns to ‘How long will Tobita last?’ Everyone is anxious. The reason there are so many hostesses committing suicide is because of the fear of an uncertain future.

But, I was able to pay off my debt and leave money for my son, who is now in high school, because of Tobita. I don’t think there is another place where I could have made those dreams come true. To the public, it might be a gray area, but for people like me who can only live in such a gray world, it gives hope.

The busiest time in recent years was actually during the 2019 G20 Summit. Police officers came as customers, and we were so busy there was hardly any time to rest. It may be difficult, but I would be happy if the Expo could bring some vitality back to Tobita. I truly wish for that from the bottom of my heart.”

Having left Tobita, Kaho is now spending her days studying to obtain a psychological counselor qualification.

“Once you work in Tobita, most people can’t go back to normal jobs. That’s why some continue working even past 60, some become older hostesses, and others get into management. It might be surprising, but there are hardly any yakuza left now, so there are fewer entanglements and harassment. More and more hostesses are going into second careers through Tobita.

I am also aiming for a job where I can care for girls in similar situations to mine, but I might return to this town. It has a kind of magic that draws you back. But, still I don’t want my son to know about my work.”

The people living in Japan’s largest and most historic chon’s-ma (brothel district), with nearly 110 years of history, are amidst the waves of a changing era.

From the April 18, 2025 issue of “FRIDAY”