Foreign Entrepreneurs Transform Tokyo’s Entertainment Districts in Ueno, Yushima and Okachimachi
The old-fashioned stores have disappeared, and Indian, Chinese, and Vietnamese communities are intertwined with each other. A jewelry store that was the scene of the "Luffy's Robbers" incident also exists.
Rapid Transformation of Ueno, Yushima, and Okachimachi
Located in the heart of Tokyo, Ueno Station and Okachimachi Station serve as railway hubs, known as the “northern gateway.” The Ameyoko shopping street, which runs parallel between the two stations, has regained its vibrancy, attracting about 2 million visitors during the year-end season, primarily from inbound tourists.
In Okachimachi, just a five-minute walk from Ameyoko, there are said to be over 2,000 jewelers, making it one of the largest concentrations in Japan. Stepping into Yushima, also within walking distance, you are greeted by streets that evoke a sense of Southeast Asia. It is rare in Tokyo to find such closely situated commercial areas with distinctly different characteristics.
Moreover, each of these commercial zones is undergoing rapid transformation. We walked through this deep town in the city center.
Ueno is currently vibrant, even on weekdays. During the day, izakayas have expanded their seating onto the streets, overflowing with people sharing drinks. However, this lively atmosphere is not necessarily welcomed by everyone.
“There are too many izakayas seating customers on the street without permission or exceeding the scope of their permits. Now, about 60% of Ueno’s dining establishments are run by foreigners. Customer manners are not great, and it’s very troublesome for other businesses. Measures against aggressive solicitations are also necessary,” said a retail store owner in Ameyoko.
Originating from the post-war black market, Ameyoko was once crowded with fish shops. However, their numbers have drastically decreased to the point where they can fit in one hand. Masakazu Kobayashi, 57, who runs a fish shop in the area, explains:
“In Ameyoko, about 80% of our customers are foreigners. Due to aging and generational changes, some fish shops have closed, and foreigners have taken over those locations. The first kebab shop opened over ten years ago. After that, Chinese restaurants came in large numbers. Although the number of visitors to Ameyoko has increased, foreigners don’t buy fish, so business is tough.”
The scene of traditional shops spreading across Ameyoko is now a thing of the past. Currently, Asian shops and chain stores dominate the area.
Amidst this transformation, some areas are experiencing confusion and an increase in violent crime. Exiting Ueno Station and passing through the “Ameyoko Center Building,” which houses clothing, jewelry, and Asian food specialty stores, leads to Okachimachi Station. From there, heading toward Akihabara reveals numerous jewelry shops and wholesalers.
Signs display terms like “Gold,” “Diamonds,” and “Rolex.” Guard personnel dressed in security uniforms create a formidable atmosphere.
“This area has always had a high incidence of robberies, but it has become particularly noticeable in recent years. A common pattern is that the same stores are targeted repeatedly. It seems like a list of stores has been leaked; in March 2022, the Luffy robbery gang also targeted us. The stores being hit are always those dealing in gold, diamonds, and luxury watches.”
The person sharing this is a man who has operated a wholesale business here for many years. He notes that since most are small, individual shops, the budget for security measures is limited, and there are limits to what we can do.
