The chef who wields his skills at a restaurant with a long line of customers is a “North Korean chef”…! We sneak into an authentic restaurant in Chiba that serves “super authentic Pyongyang cold noodles”!
When we opened our restaurant in Seoul, my husband was introduced to us as a mentor for those of us who did not know what was right and what was left. I thought he was an old man, but I was surprised to see him as a young man (laughs). My husband kindly taught me everything, including how to purchase ingredients and seasonings. Even when he found out that I was a North Korean defector, he didn’t change his kindness, saying, ‘I came from Japan and had a hard time myself. Because he was there, I rarely felt hardship.”
It took Katsumata a year to recreate the taste of Moon’s mother’s Pyongyang cold noodle soup. Moon recalls.
My mother had bad knees and couldn’t stand up in the restaurant, so my husband worked very hard to learn. It is the result of his hard work and cooking sense. Now my husband does all the cooking.

Pyongyang cold noodles at Solnun have a refreshingly cool and rich taste. The firm but soft noodles are soaked in the soup and you can’t help but finish it in one gulp. The price is set at 1,200 yen per bowl, which is low considering its gorgeous appearance.
Some people say it is too cheap, but we want as many Japanese people as possible to be able to enjoy Pyongyang cold noodles in a casual way. First of all, we plan to open more restaurants in Chiba. I don’t want to serve it in Tokyo, but I want people to come to my hometown, Chiba, to eat it! (laughs)” (Katsumata).
Mr. Moon is also very ambitious.
My husband and I are talking about eventually bringing ‘Solnun’ to the United States as well. (I worry about how my friends and relatives (in North Korea) are doing, and I miss them, but …… I will do my best in Japan. I am really happy to be here. I want to stay here for the rest of my life.”
With thoughts of North Korea in their hearts, the couple continues to make authentic Pyongyang cold noodles today.
Interview and text: Kim Myeong-U PHOTO: Hiroyuki Komatsu