The Ultimate Bowl: Tenkaippin, Ichiran, and Ippudo in the Rich Ramen Three Kingdoms

Tenka Ippin with a focus on efficiency, Ichiran with a focus on efficiency

However, Tenka Ippin’s road to nationwide expansion was a difficult one. Even in 2000, some 30 years after its establishment, there were only two or three Tenka Ippin restaurants in Tokyo. However, a tailwind was blowing for Tenka Ippin.

In the 2000s, consumers began to demand thick tsukemen (thick tsukemen) such as Rokurinsha, followed by the rise of ike-kei and jiro-kei styles of noodles. Against this backdrop, Tenichi’s “kottori,” which is neither tonkotsu-style nor back fat-style, attracted attention as a one-of-a-kind product. Although the soup is so thick that the lenggae stands on end, the true substance of the sludge is collagen from chicken bones, and it does not upset the stomach. It can be enjoyed for a long time by everyone from the young to the middle-aged. Unlike Ippudo, which is a marketing slick and dexterous company, Tenka Ippin, with its “kottori” (thick soup) and the support of enthusiasts, is not pandering to anyone and is moving forward in a foolish manner,” said ramen researcher Hayato Ishiyama.

Tenka Ippin, which has made ramen fans addicted to its one-of-a-kind soup, is moving slowly but strongly.

Ippudo and Tenka Ippin, both with over 200 outlets, have rivals that are far ahead of them in annual sales. Ippudo’s sales last year were up 26% from the previous year, while Tenka Ippin’s sales were down 26%. While Ippudo’s sales last year were 26.1 billion yen and Tenka Ippin’s 11.5 billion yen, Ichiran’s sales were a whopping 35.5 billion yen. The sales per store are simply calculated to be about 413 million yen. This is an overwhelming figure, even with sales of cup noodles, ramen sticks, and other merchandising. What is the reason for this strong performance?

The “Natural Tonkotsu Ramen,” in which the “red secret sauce,” made by mixing and aging more than 30 different ingredients based on chili peppers, floats in the center of the soup, costs 980 yen per bowl. The “ICHIRAN 5 selections” with toppings are priced at 1,620 yen, and a doubledama is 210 yen, which is more expensive than at most chain restaurants. By focusing only on ramen, both the cost of cooking and the time spent at the restaurant can be reduced. In addition, customers sit at a “private room counter” with a partition called a “taste-concentration counter,” so even if they come with friends, they cannot waste time talking after eating,” says Takero Kanda, a ramen researcher who makes his own ramen.

It is true that the customer turnover rate must be high. However, if the side menu is poor and the conversation during the meal is not enjoyable, it is likely that customers would normally stay away. ……

Ichiran’s presentation is positive. The menu says ‘natural tonkotsu (pork bone),’ but no restaurant uses wild pigs (laughs).
By claiming that it is natural and that they don’t use instant tonkotsu extract, they can make people think, ‘Something different. Saying ‘single ramen’ instead of ‘no sides’ will make people feel that you are committed.
The style of writing on the order form makes it easy for shy young people and inbound customers with limited language skills to place their orders. With the hardware in place to generate high profits, the positive presentation that sublimates this into a commitment has enabled management with little waste.

Looking at sales alone, Ichiran has the upper hand, but each of the three has its own strengths. Is the opponent domestic, global, ramen mania, or youth?　The three kingdoms of the ramen industry will not end easily.

From the May 24, 2024 issue of FRIDAY