Chef Toba was not awarded the Michelin star! What about the “unofficial” comment? Will he get it back?
sio” is now a “Selected Restaurant” instead of a “One-Star” restaurant
On December 5, 2011, the launch of the “Michelin Guide Tokyo 2024” was held at the National Art Center, Tokyo, with a briefing for the media from 12:00 p.m., a ceremony to announce the restaurants to be included in the guide from 2:00 p.m., and a reception from 3:30 p.m. I attended the reception. The ceremony to announce the restaurants that would be featured in the magazine was attended by all the restaurant-related parties except for the Selected Restaurants. A total of 600 people attended the event, which was very lively.
This year, 194 “Selected Restaurants,” a new category in which no stars, Bib Gourmand, or Michelin Green Star ratings are assigned, were added to the list. As a result, a total of 504 restaurants (168 new) are now listed, the largest number ever. With 183 starred restaurants in Tokyo, the city was again named the “World’s Most Starred City” this year.
Every year around this time, the food and beverage industry is abuzz for a while about restaurants with new listings or those that have increased or decreased their stars, but even those not in the food and beverage industry may have been concerned about the future of some of these restaurants.
The restaurant “sio” in Yoyogi Uehara was headed by Shusaku Toba, who had a double affair with actress Ryoko Hirosue.
Regarding his new restaurant in Nagano, which opened in the midst of the turmoil, he said, “I don’t know how this affair will affect me this year, but if it doesn’t, I’ll get a Michelin for my new restaurant. I’ve already received an offer.” He caused controversy with his “Michelin Guide star offer” comment.
In the “Michelin Guide Tokyo 2024,” there are a total of 37 restaurants in the contemporary cuisine genre to which “sio” belongs. The breakdown is as follows: 4 three-star restaurants, 8 two-star restaurants, 11 one-star restaurants, 1 Bib Gourmand restaurant, and 13 select restaurants with no rating. Unfortunately, “sio” lost a star last year when it was demoted from one star to Selected Restaurant.
Since it is not a Bib Gourmand, it is considered to have been lowered two levels. It is possible for a restaurant to suddenly drop two or more levels due to a change of chef (there was a case this year where a chef disappeared due to an incident) or a restaurant relocation, but it is very rare.
The importance of “fairness” and “impartiality”… Was there a “star offer”?
How did this happen?
The Michelin Guide’s evaluation criteria are the same worldwide, and the following elements are strictly evaluated regardless of the cuisine category.
- Quality of ingredients
- High level of culinary skill
- Perfection of seasoning
- Originality
- Consistency of the dish as a whole
Each year, the Michelin Guide emphasizes these five points at its presentation. Originality” includes the presentation of the dish, but is basically an evaluation of the dish on the plate. The decision to include a restaurant in the guidebook is made by a panel of judges, the editor-in-chief, and the guidebook’s general manager.
Space, service, and selection of alcoholic beverages are irrelevant, but restaurants with an excellent selection of alcoholic beverages are given pictograms such as “Interesting Wine” or “Interesting Sake”. The ratings are valid until the next year’s edition is published, or until one year after the book is published.
Today, various restaurant ratings exist. In Japan, the “World’s 50 Best Restaurants,” “Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants,” and “La Liste” may be cited for rankings, while “Eat Log,” “Google Maps,” and “Go e Miyo” may be cited for ratings.
Among the many restaurant ratings in existence, the Michelin Guide places the greatest importance on “impartiality” and “fairness. The surveyors are full-time Michelin employees and have solid identities.
They are completely anonymous, as they make reservations and pay for their services in the same way as ordinary customers. No single inspector evaluates a restaurant alone, and the decisions are made by several people to ensure transparency and objectivity.
There is no merit in telling a restaurant that it has been given a star, even to the detriment of the values that the Michelin Guide places the highest value on: impartiality and fairness. Furthermore, to guarantee a star to a new restaurant that has not even been investigated is a fatal flaw for a research organization.
The “unofficial star” comment was about a new restaurant in Nagano, but Mr. Toba’s main focus is none other than “sio. What would a third party think if “sio” had continued to maintain its star? If a star is assured even for a new restaurant that has not even been investigated, it is only natural that “sio,” which has won a star every year, would also be questioned as having a star in mind.
Michelin Guide Tokyo 2024″ revisits historic and famous restaurants… Chef Toba’s possible revival.
It is not generally known, but at the presentation of the Michelin Guide, even the invited restaurateurs are not informed of their rating (the media is informed just before the ceremony). At the very least, it is a Bib Gourmand, but there is no proof that it is a star. I have repeatedly checked with regular star chefs and three-star chefs, and none of them have been informed of anything.
In fact, “sio” is an excellent restaurant and I have a good impression of it. The menu is a multi-course meal of about 10 dishes, with French and Italian based dishes using a variety of ingredients and ending with a meal. Wine pairings are mainly from France, but also include Japanese sake.
The restaurant is full of lively guests and the service is friendly without being formal. Access from the station is excellent, and a normal dinner would cost in the 20,000 yen range for the course and wine. Reservations are not easy to make, as the price is very reasonable for a starred restaurant.
Therefore, it is understandable that the Michelin Guide’s investigators would judge the quality of the restaurant to be more than one star. However, listing a restaurant as a star entails a great deal of risk. However, this does not mean that the restaurant is of low quality. The “landing place” for this is the Selected Restaurant, which was established in 2011.
In the Michelin Guide, “sio” is listed as innovative in the “Michelin Guide Tokyo 2023,” published in 2010, and as contemporary cuisine in the “Michelin Guide Tokyo 2024,” published in 2011. However, the cuisine that Mr. Toba spins is based on French and Italian cuisine.
In the “Michelin Guide Tokyo 2024,” the famous French restaurants were reevaluated. Ginza L’Ecain” and “Monolith” were awarded one star, and “Aladdin,” “Sakaki,” “Pont d’Or Ino,” “Apicius,” “Bouquet de France,” “La Rochelle Minami-Aoyama,” “Le Bourguignon,” and “Bon Chemin” were selected as Selected Restaurants, bringing new restaurants that are loved by many guests and have a long history. The Michelin Guide is a great honor for the restaurant.
Every year, the Michelin Guide’s inspectors list and rigorously review restaurants. Hence, not only trendy restaurants, but also those that once lost their stars or once thrived, continue to be visited and may be listed again.
The Michelin Guide’s recent trend has been to be harsh on restaurants where the chef is not actually present. One of the evaluation criteria mentioned above is “stability and consistency,” and this seems to be becoming more and more important.
If only Mr. Toba would refrain from his roles as a producing chef or celebrity chef, and instead honestly pursue the essence of French and Italian cuisine at his important flagship restaurant, while demonstrating his creativity, and if only he would not publicly announce his “unofficial star” status, it would be quite possible for “sio” to return as a one-star restaurant. If only he would show his creativity and make a public announcement of his “one-star” status, it would be quite soon for “sio” to return as a one-star restaurant.
Text： Dong Long
Born in Taiwan in 1976. Winner of TV Tokyo's "TV Champion" in 2002 and 2007. He loves cooking, sweets, and alcohol, with a focus on fine dining and hotel gourmet cuisine. He writes easy-to-understand articles with his unique perspective on everything from inflammatory incidents to gastronomy and trends, and from the state of food to issues facing restaurants. He is also a judge, lecturer, producer, and consultant.
